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music gossip buff I have ever met, and she insisted that we listen to George all the way up there. She even regaled us with numerous funny stories from the George Jones shame file. When we got to Fort Worth we went to the Amon Carter Museum of Western Art and checked out their collection of Remingtons and Russells, an excellent photographic exhibit, and other assorted works of Western art. A great collection, for sure. Then we checked into the hotel and freshened up for the show. The best part of the whole weekend was just going to Billy Bob's Texas. Talk about a lesson in culture! The place is fucking huge! There is no mechanical bull, just LIVE INDOOR PROFESSIONAL BULLRIDING EVERY WEEKEND NIGHT!

Instead of a disco ball over the dancefloor, there is a huge mirror-encrusted saddle. There were even chicks in leather Rockies! Anyway, our seats were far away from the stage, but luckily there were TV monitors close by. George is kinda sick of playin' live, I guess. He did a couple of medleys, the chorus of "White Lightnin'," and let his backup band do a few instrumentals without him. It was cool just to see him and be there and all, and the glow emanating from Miss Emily's person (she is also a member of the George Jones fan club and kept flashing her membership card around all night) lit up the room.

[Photo: "Cooper and Miss Emily at the only bar information desk I've ever seen."]